BallinStadt emigration museum honors courage of new arrivals

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HAMBURG, Germany -- BallinStadt, the new emigration museum located in the suburb of Veddel, is a short ride by subway from the central train station here, but it is a small irony that the most meaningful approach to this historic departure site to the New World is a half-hour mini-voyage via a passenger ferry that never ventures beyond the gentle swells of the Elbe River.

After all, it was by sailing far rougher seas that more than 5 million people, Germans, Poles and Russians for the most part, rolled the dice and ventured outbound from the port of Hamburg to the U.S. and South America between 1850 and 1939.

Open since July, BallinStadt is named after Albert Ballin, who as director of the HAPAG shipping company at the turn of the century built a hygienic, culturally diverse and welcoming city-within-a-city here for prospective emigrants literally waiting for their ship to come in.

Constructed from 1901 to 1907, the mass accommodations that greeted the thousands who arrived at this self-contained island way station were unique for their concern for the dignity and comfort of the transients who took up residence here, some for a few days, some for as long as several weeks.

On the grounds of what essentially was a multicultural village, for example, were 15 buildings in all, including a reception hall, quarantine station, two hotels, dormitories, shops, churches, a synagogue (Ballin himself was Jewish) and a medical dispensary.

  Most of this, including three meals a day, came at a modest cost that even the deracinated could bear.

Certainly, the emigration facilities were also built with commercial interests in mind; screenings given prior to departure reduced both the risk of sick emigrants being rejected Photo by Joe Rosenand returned from distant reception ports such as Ellis Island (at a heavy cost to the shipping line) and eased the unjustified fears of resident Hamburgers that Russians and other eastern Europeans in their midst were responsible for a dreaded cholera outbreak.

BallinStadt today features interactive video and audio exhibits, reconstructions, life-sized animated figures, "talking" vintage photographs, artifacts such as steamer trunks, ship line posters offering passage to "Cuba y Mexico" and "Hamburg to New York," letters home and ships' logs. 

Three reconstructed housing pavilions, rebuilt following the specifications from founding plans and including some of the original bricks (and cobblestones for the streets), constitute BallinStadt.

Family Research Center

Building One houses the Family Research Center, where visitors can search at free computer stations for data about family members who emigrated from Hamburg between 1890 and 1908.

In all, more than 5 million names contained in 550 Hamburg ships' manifests, the largest such collection in the world, eventually will be accessible.

Building 2 details the stages of an emigrant's experience, from his or her birthplace in Europe, the decision to leave, interim residence in Hamburg, the voyage (most often in the confines of steerage) and arrival in the New World.

Here life-size, animated figures and audio-enhanced photos tells the emigrants' stories in their own words, while visitors can assume the identity of an emigrant and face the trials and tribulations borne by his intrepid forebears.

Films depicting what life was like aboard ship during the six- to seven-day passage across the Atlantic are shown in the "hull" theater of a re-created emigrant steamer, among them a charming silent short called "The Immigrant" starring a young and engaging Charlie Chaplin as the innocent "little tramp" on his way to the U.S.

Everyday life in the emigration complex is the focus of Building 3, where the last surviving elements of the original structures are maintained.

In this pavilion guests will find the registration desk where the emigrants signed in and were assigned their dormitory bed in the sleeping quarters.

Passports, police records, letters lend a real-world touch to the distant experiences of those caught in transit between old home and new.

To contact reporter Joe Rosen, send e-mail to [email protected].

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