There was a time, back in the 1960s and
early 1970s, when visiting Maui meant visiting Kaanapali. It was
there, on beachfront lands once planted in sugarcane along the
south coast of west Maui, that the first of Hawaii's master-planned
destination resorts made its debut in 1962.
That year, the
first of two Robert Trent Jones Sr.-designed golf courses
opened. The Sheraton Maui opened in
1963, followed by the Kaanapali Beach Hotel the next year; the Maui
Hilton, now ResortQuest Maui Kaanapali Villas, in 1965; the Royal
Lahaina in 1966; and the Maui Surf, now the Westin Maui, in
1971.
Innovative and
pioneering, Kaanapali also included condominiums, with the first,
the Maui Eldorado, opening in 1970. The Whaler would follow in
1975, with the Kaanapali Alii opening several years
later.
In the 1990s,
timeshares made their debut. Westin completed the last of a planned
1,001 units at its Kaanapali Villas, and Marriott put the finishing
touches on the first of two planned timeshare tower additions to
its Ocean Club.
Yes, Kaanapali has
matured, offering a range of options that make it a desirable
vacation destination for couples and families alike.
The Kaanapali experience
The Kaanapali
experience starts with the beach. Two mile-long stretches of sand
are separated by a rocky promontory called Black Rock.
The rock was held
sacred by Hawaiians of old as a "soul leap," where spirits crossed
over to the afterlife. Black Rock, its visual impact now diminished
by the buildings that line the beach, remains a Kaanapali landmark,
separating the south beach -- home to the Hyatt Regency Maui,
Marriott Vacation Club, Kaanapali Alii, Westin Maui, the Whaler,
Kaanapali Beach Hotel and Sheraton Maui -- from the north beach,
where the Royal Lahaina, Maui Kaanapali Villas, Maui Eldorado
Resort and Westin Kaanapali Villas are located.
A meandering
promenade, busy from morning to night, parallels the south beach.
The area's hotels and condos feed into the promenade, as does
Whalers Village, which fronts it with several
restaurants.
Hula Grill is
recommended, while the Westin's Tropica provides a more upscale, al
fresco dining option.
Now expanded to
include a mall's worth of brand-name shops, Whalers Village also
includes a whaling museum, which serves as a reminder of nearby
Lahaina's reign as the whaling capital of the Pacific in the
mid-19th century.
During the day, the
beach is alive with activity options. Several catamarans depart the
strand on snorkeling, whale-watching (from November through May)
and sunset sails that offer grand views not only of Maui but also
of the neighboring islands of Molokai, Lanai and Kahoolawe.
Small boats ferry
passengers to larger craft offshore that provide the momentum for
parasailing.
Snorkelers can head
to Black Rock, where a colorful array of fish can be found,
although nothing to compare with what a snorkel tour of Honolua Bay
reveals.
Kaanapali offers
magnificent sunsets that reveal neighboring Molokai and Lanai in
dramatic silhouette. On any given evening, newlyweds gaze at the
setting sun as a photographer commemorates the moment, while
families stroll the beach and promenade and a few children linger
in the gentle shore break.
At sunset, a runner
lights tiki torches en route to Black Rock, and then makes a
ceremonial dive from its summit.
More than just the beach
But there is more
to Kaanapali than just the beach. Its two manicured golf courses
have oceanside and hillside settings, offering enjoyable play and
great views.
Lahaina provides
Kaanapali with another invaluable tourism asset: With its mix of
restaurants, galleries, shops and, most significantly, unique sense
of place, the town is home to numerous historical buildings that
have been preserved and incorporated into a self-guided walking
tour.
The tour includes
the Baldwin Mission Home, built in 1835 by medical missionary
Dwight Baldwin; the old jailhouse, dating to the 1850s; and a
plantation-era Chinese social hall.
Just outside of
town, a missionary-era printing house, Hale Pai, has been restored
and is open to visitors. It's located on the grounds of the
Lahainaluna School, which was founded in 1835 and is the oldest
secondary school west of the Rockies.
Kaanapali also has
the noteworthy advantage of Kapalua Airport, a small, convenient
and hassle-free facility. Flying into Kapalua eliminates what can
be an hour-long drive from larger Kahului Airport on the
traffic-clogged highway that links West Maui to the rest of the
island.
With intensive
development on Maui, traffic has emerged as a problem, with clogged
roads and traffic jams not uncommon and no real solution on the
horizon.
Visitors staying at
Kaanapali don't even need cars, as there's plenty to do on
property. But resort guests with wanderlust are able to rent cars
in West Maui at rates comparable to those found at
Kahului.
There is also an
intraresort shuttle service and the historical Lahaina-Kaanapali
& Pacific Railroad, which links Kaanapali to Lahaina as it
travels through sugarcane fields.
Visitors who do
rent a car enjoy access to some excellent alternatives across West
Maui, including the scenic coastal drive to Kahakuloa Village,
where the feel of old Hawaii survives, and a stop at Honolua Bay, a
marine preserve also accessible via the catamarans departing
Kaanapali's south and north beaches.
The resort's
infrastructure has been considerably improved over the years, with
remodels and remakes upgrading older properties to meet 21st
century expectations.
A family affair
Visiting recently
with my 18-year-old daughter, I found today's Kaanapali the perfect
place for modern, multigenerational fun, with first-rate activities
and quality hotels and condominiums, most ranking in the four- to
five-star league.
Luxury doesn't come
cheap there, but packages and discounts can take a bit of the edge
off rack rates, which typically run from $400 to $1,000 per
night.
Despite a steady
flow of group and incentives business, Kaanapali remains primarily
an FIT destination.
Kaanapali's
facilities are ideal for families, with condos offering grill
gardens for outdoor dining. This summer, families -- in many
configurations and age combinations -- were out in force, as were
honeymooners and wedding parties.
Packages at most
properties cater to the romance and family markets.
To
contact reporter Allan Seiden, send e-mail to [email protected].