NEW YORK -- The Four Seasons Bali at Sayan got off to a rocky start when it opened last spring. The Indonesian island was affected by the haze that had blanketed a vast area of Southeast Asia, and political turmoil erupted soon after, causing the country's president to step down.

The Four Seasons Bali"We went through a difficult time for several months," said Chris Norton, general manager of both the Four Seasons at Sayan and the Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay, which opened in 1993. He said there were 2,000 cancellations at the Sayan property in June, but occupancy bounced back to 60% in July, and 80% in August and September. At one point, said Norton, "there were so many calls from the U.S. asking about conditions that we rotated a management team to take calls overnight because of the difference in time zones."

Both Four Seasons properties and many other hotels, with prices ranging from $25 to $600 a night, offered discounts or value-added promotions under the banner "Bali, Better Than Ever." They stressed the deals available because the rupiah went from 2,400 to the dollar before the economic crisis to 17,000; it has now settled back to about 11,000. According to Norton, "During the haze period we also had a deal for travel agents at $125 a night; we got 150 agents taking 500 room nights here over an eight-week period."

As a result of that period, said Norton, a dormant public-private entity called Bali Promo was revived. It raised money, placed ads on CNN and elsewhere, and began regular e-mail newsletters to the trade, media and others. The e-mail continues, and a printed newsletter will begin soon. "We did so well," said Norton, "that the Indonesian government is thinking of emulating Bali Promo with a national promotional group."

Now that the crisis is over, said Norton, Bali tourism interests are looking at long-term issues. "We are seeking to open up air service to Bali; most flights have to stop elsewhere in Indonesia or in Asia before they come here; it is often tough to get seats."

Norton said agents should be aware of what makes Bali different -- specifically its culture and religion, which have a pervasive influence on the daily life of Balinese and, by extension, tourists. "We have a religious committee at Jimbaran Bay," he said, which, among other things, places 650 offerings to the gods each day (usually banana leaves with fruit and rice). "We have fabulous beaches and sightseeing, as well," said Norton, "but travelers can get a tan and a pina colada anywhere."

Property gives clients a glimpse of local culture

When Four Seasons decided to open a second Bali resort five years after the successful debut of its Jimbaran Bay property, it envisioned that the two would be "completely different," said Chris Norton, general manager of both hotels.

Norton and John Heah, architect of the new Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan, described how the Sayan property is different from the Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay. According to Heah, the resort "is inland where it's cooler and it's a much more cultural area near Ubud, with many craftsmen and temples nearby. We decided on a resort that would intensify the spiritual experience."

The new resort is located in a small river valley and was constructed in "a subterranean fashion," Heah said. "It's almost an upside-down hotel with guests crossing a bridge to the roof, which is a half-acre lotus pond. From there they go into a small opening to the lobby. It is only when they get to their rooms that they realize they see the valley. In fact when they come from the airport and are dropped off at the top of the ridge [that surrounds the valley], they ask, 'Where is the resort?' "

Heah said the property is Four Seasons' smallest resort, with 46 units on 17 acres. There are 18 suites in the main building, with the remaining units in villas around the property. Throughout the resort, flowing water is used to celebrate the Balinese heritage of nourishing the body and spirit. The reason for all this, said Heah, "is that guests want to be touched intellectually; they want a spiritual retreat. "People have changed; where they wanted aerobics years ago, now they want yoga."

The spa at Sayan has treatments indigenous to the area, such as rice and spice body scrubs. Activities include white-water rafting and sightseeing among the temples and mountain biking.

Norton said that about 25% of guests at the two resorts are American. He said 80% of guests at Sayan also stay at Jimbaran Bay, while 15% of Jimbaran Bay also visit Sayan. "It's a seamless experience to stay at both resorts," said Norton. "There is a single check-in-checkout procedure and mutual signing privileges. Also, the staff will pack and unpack for guests going between resorts. The staff takes Polaroid photos of the closets and bathrooms, [so that workers] at the other resort can re-create the [personalized] setup." This is possible to do at a pair of resorts where 1,000 people attend to a total of 192 units.

The rack rate for a suite at Sayan starts at $375, double; at Jimbaran Bay the rate is $525 for a one-bedroom villa. A new Ocean and River package includes stays at both resorts. It covers seven nights' accommodations, daily breakfasts, one-hour massage for each guest, transfers between resorts, signing privileges at both resorts and the packing/unpacking service. The rate is $2,850, double, through Dec. 20. Other packages run from four to 14 nights.

For reservations, call (800) 332-3442.

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