MOSS BEACH, Calif. -- Little did Karen Brown know that a trip to Europe on a whim 22 years ago would launch a career and associate her name with European inns and small hotels.

Today, Brown's name, like that of her friend Rick Steves, of PBS travel series fame, is instantly recognizable in the travel sections of bookstores.

The folksy style and charming illustrations of the guidebook series that bears her name stand out among the slicker titles on the travel bookshelves.

It started in 1977 when Brown, after a year of college, took off for Europe on her own for nine months. She wasn't the typical American college student backpacker looking for a good time with some cultural experiences along the way: Brown decided if she was going to explore Europe it would be with a project in mind.

She was encouraged by her mother, Clare Brown, owner of Town & Country Travel in San Mateo, Calif., to consider writing a guidebook. "My mother said agents found it difficult to get good information about small inns in the countryside," she said. "At that time the only way to get information was through the Michelin books."

Brown already had travel experience under her belt. The daughter of a long-time agent, she had traveled widely with her family, spent a summer in Germany and worked during high school at Town & Country Travel. "We couldn't use the family car unless we delivered tickets," she said.

So, she felt she knew what to look for as she began combing France looking at small inns, finding the quaint, family-owned ones her favorites. "I wasn't interested in being like a Mobil Guide inspector looking at plumbing fixtures," she said.

"I was looking for personality so that when a traveler walked into an inn they would feel charmed and welcomed."

When she returned, Brown started putting together material and enlisted a fellow classmate at the University of California at Berkeley to draw pictures from photographs of the inns she had taken.

But the informal style of the material turned off publishers. Undeterred, Brown managed to get a loan from a local bank and had her first book self-published:

"French Country Inns and Chateaus." She ordered 10,000 copies.

Another obstacle confronted her: Bookstores were not interested. Travel titles at the time were not booming, and few would consider a self-published book.

Brown took a different tack, sending copies to newspaper travel editors with press releases describing how, as a 19-year-old, she had written the book.

Many were impressed and wrote about the France guide, adding the mailing address to which interested readers could send checks to buy copies. Brown answered from her dorm room at UC-Berkeley, mailing hundreds of books.

Before she knew it, she had sold out the copies and paid her loan back to the bank. She did not return to college to finish her degree as her publishing career blossomed.

"I realized at that point that I had a nucleus for a series of books," she said. The series began to grow as Brown made more and more trips to Europe. Her parents' garage was turned into the storage and mail-order center for the fledgling publishing house.

Her mother, Clare, began helping in the researching and the writing of the books, spending less time in the agency. Another Town & Country agent, June Brown, no relation to the mother and daughter, joined the duo as a third writer as the series expanded.

On a promotional trip to New York, Karen Brown landed a coup, signing with Scribner's, a major publishing house, for distribution. Through a series of publishing mergers and acquisitions, the Karen Brown series is now distributed through Fodor's, a division of Random House.

However, Brown retains control as publisher through her firm, San Mateo-based Karen Brown's Guides. The series contains 13 titles, including most of the Western European countries and California and has been split into two categories: one for upscale small hotels and the other for less expensive bed-and-breakfast inns. Overall sales average 150,000 copies a year.

Clare Brown, who is now a full-time writer of the guides, said she is still surprised by the huge following her daughter's books have attracted. "People call her the Martha Stewart of travel," she said.

On a recent trip to research inns in northern Italy, Clare Brown checked into a 12-room inn that has been listed in previous guides and found that half of the rooms were occupied by travelers carrying the Karen Brown Italy guide.

"Like a lot of things that are successful, the fact that our guides are highly personal and that we do almost everything ourselves has contributed," said Clare Brown.

The guides are not the end of Karen Brown's entrepreneurial ventures. A few years ago, she and her husband, Rick Herbert, bought land on the scenic coastline south of San Francisco and built their own bed-and-breakfast inn -- reminiscent of French and English country hotels that she visited over the years.

The Seal Cove Inn in Moss Beach, Calif., with gardens and guest rooms with antique beds and chintz and floral fabrics, attracts some guests who come expecting to meet the author of the famous guidebook series -- and often they do.

When Brown is not spending two to three days a week at her publishing company's offices next door to Town & Country Travel she often can be found at the inn.

There are even more travel ventures ahead for Brown. Several years ago, Town & Country Travel started a separate division called KB Travel to handle specific Europe FITs based on the Karen Brown guidebook series' recommended itineraries and property recommendations.

A wholesaler, Jet Vacations, is selling European packages based on itineraries and properties from the Karen Brown books.

And she is in discussion with a television production company for a travel show on small inns and romantic hotels, with herself as the host.

But as with everything Brown has done, she wants to make sure it is done right. "Our marketing strategy has been to have a good product," she said.

"That fact that we've managed to keep the guidebooks' high quality after more than 20 years is important. People ask for a Karen Brown book, but it's not me they want, it's a certain quality they're looking for."

Agency experience a plus for guides

SAN MATEO, Calif. -- Of all the travel guides on the bookstore shelves, few except Karen Brown's Guides can claim to have been written by people who have worked or are working as travel agents.

Clare Brown, Karen's mother and owner of 30-year-old Town & Country Travel, San Mateo, Calif., said the agency experience plays a strong part in the researching and writing of the books.

"The fact that we used to talk to people on a daily basis about travel gave us a lot of insight into what people want and need," she said.

Clare Brown is aware that many of the small inns recommended in the guides do not pay commission. But, even before commission caps, she imposed service fees at the agency for the elaborate FITs to Europe constructed around the countryside inns.

Today, it is standard practice, and she recommends it to other agencies. "People seem to appreciate the professional advice and level of service and don't mind paying a fee for it," she said. "There's not much service left in the world."

Meanwhile, the Browns are happy to report that travel agents make up a large percentage of their readers.

Many agencies buy the entire set of the guides each year, taking advantage of the publishing company's standard discount to travel agents on all of its titles. Agents can buy the $18.95 titles for $11 and the $17.95 titles for $10.50.

However, Karen Brown's Guides is offering agents a special price of $7 per title, including postage and tax, on 1999 editions of all its books, limited to stock on hand. To order, contact Karen Brown's Guides, P.O. Box 70, San Mateo, Calif. 94401. Phone (650) 342-9117 or fax (650) 342-9153.

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