ONBOARD THE ROALD AMUNDSEN -- Agents who haven't sold
Hurtigruten for a while might want to take a fresh look at the Norwegian
carrier now that it is sailing its new hybrid-electric expedition ship.
The 530-passenger Roald Amundsen is a big step for the line,
which five years ago began transforming itself from primarily a transportation
service along Norway's rugged Atlantic coast into an expedition line with
global ambitions.
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The Roald Amundsen is one of the most attractive ships I've
seen recently, a flagship for modern Nordic design. Its neutral colors, woolly
fabrics and wood-centric interiors are just the thing for traveling through
chilly climes.
The ship's most dramatic feature is a video wall that
stretches seven decks in height for the length of the elevator atrium. The
images of nature set a tone for the cruise, and its scale is spectacular.
There's also a smaller, horizontal screen that occupies a
wall in the expedition staging area, where guests gear up before going out on
Zodiac landings. The screen can be linked to a feed from a high-definition
camera that shows guests an actual view of the landscape into which they're
headed.
The launch area is equipped with high-quality, webbed
seating that gives it a quasi-military feel, accentuated by the kind of
low-level lighting one might find on a submarine. There are racks full of
mittens, stacks of hiking poles and a long wall lined with wet and dry suits.
The Roald Amundsen's glass-walled sauna. Photo Credit: Tom Stieghorst
The area will get a lot of traffic on a ship with hundreds
of guests, so it will be interesting to see how crowded it feels as everyone
wrestles with their gear.
Another standout feature on the Amundsen is the glass-walled
sauna, the largest I have seen on a ship. The space is flanked on either side
by men's and women's changing rooms, and a schedule is posted outside detailing
times of day for men's, women's and mixed use.
Two gathering places on the Amundsen merit mention. The
Explorer's Lounge on Deck 10 is a spacious and thoughtfully designed area that
doesn't come off as large as it is and would be a fun place to hang out. There's
a band of floor-to-ceiling windows on each side lined with swivel chairs that
are outfitted with small trays for beverages, snacks and other items.
A long faux fireplace runs the center of the room, with
illusory "flames" created from mist and orange lighting.
Forward, there's an observation area that has daybed-like
loungers that fit cozily under the slanted windows that look out over the bow.
Then there's the Science Center, which is a standout and can
be larger than on other expedition ships because the Roald Amundsen is twice
the size of most of its competitors.
The area incorporates a library, a lecture room, a photo
center and a lab with demonstration microscopes as a main feature. Decoration
includes replica skulls of polar animals such as killer whales, musk oxen,
polar bears and walruses.
Video screens dominating several walls can be fed by
underwater drones that broadcast submarine sights. There are two very cool and
snug chairs in the library that are ideal reading nooks.
Another feature enabled by the Amundsen's larger size is a
running/walking track on the top deck that provides a serious outdoor exercise
space unusual on an expedition ship. There are also three restaurants on the
Amundsen, a broader choice than some of the competition can muster.
The largest of the three is named Aune, after the ship
chandlers in Tromso, Norway, that equipped all of the legendary Norwegian polar
explorers.
A more casual eatery, Fredheim, carries the name of a famous
trapper's cabin in Svalbard, one of Hurtigruten's prime destinations. It
specializes in milkshakes, including one made with Norwegian cloudberries.
Aquavit fans can order an aquavit sour from the bar.
Microscopes in the ship's Science Center can be used for close examination of items such as an albatross feather. Photo Credit: Tom Stieghorst
Finally, Lindstrom is the ship's fine dining alternative,
named for the chef on the Fram, the ship that Roald Amundsen used for polar
exploration. We ate at Aune one evening, and diners remarked on the coziness
and the thoughtful way the space has been divided. The food was good, too.
My cabin on the Amundsen was a place I could spend time in.
Rather than the usual sofa, there are two contemporary chairs. There is a work
desk that does not double as a vanity. A trio of wine bottles is attractively
displayed on an inclined wall rack. The shower was notably spacious, as was the
balcony, although it was sturdier and less transparent than on ships that don't
sail rough seas.
I was personally thrilled with a small, green LED ceiling
light that dimly illuminates the bathroom approach at night, although those
with light sensitivity might want to find a way to block it out.
An infinity-edge pool on the back deck offers a view of the
ship's wake and is filled with water warmed by waste heat from the engines. It
is overlooked by two whirlpools with even warmer water.
Hurtigruten is proudly plastic free, and guests get small
aluminum bottles that can be refilled at stations on each of the passenger
decks. The refill stations have settings for tepid, cold and sparkling water.
All in all, the Roald Amundsen provides an authentic
expedition experience in what Hurtigruten CEO Daniel Skjeldam calls "premium
comfort" on a ship with a distinct size in the small-ship market.