Screaming into the Abyss, and loving it

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The Abyss towers over the Boardwalk neighborhood on Harmony of the Seas.
The Abyss towers over the Boardwalk neighborhood on Harmony of the Seas. Photo Credit: Rebecca Tobin

ONBOARD THE HARMONY OF THE SEAS — With more than 226,963 gross tons to fill, there is plenty to talk about on the world's largest cruise ship. But easily the most talked-about feature is the slide.

Not the waterslides, although if this preview cruise from England wasn't so chilly and drizzly, there would certainly be more interest in the trio of waterslides called the Perfect Storm.

It's the Abyss, a pair of purple tubes that tower over the ship's Boardwalk neighborhood. The 14-second plunge twists its way from Deck 16 to Deck 6 and involves lighting, sound effects and lots of screaming.

Riders sit on a mat that looks like a padded nylon toboggan: Put your feet in the mat's front cover, stick your legs out straight and grasp on to the mat's rope. At the command of a crew member, you edge into the tube, and then you're zooming down the tunnel. 

Of course, the attraction drew a big line.

A crew member instructs riders on the proper way to slide down the Abyss.
A crew member instructs riders on the proper way to slide down the Abyss. Photo Credit: Rebecca Tobin

My strategy was to head to the Abyss immediately following the ship's muster drill. At least a half-dozen passengers had had the same idea, and then about two dozen more joined the queue after I did. The entrance to the Abyss is located 148 feet above sea level. And, much to Instagrammers' delight, it's in the mouth of a giant sculpture of an anglerfish.

I admit to a giant burst of nerves and adrenaline right after I was instructed in proper mat usage and before I was called up to the top of the fish to actually sit on said mat. But at that point there was no backing out. Down I went into the Abyss.

The first section is a few leisurely twists lit by LEDs, but then I was plunged into darkness. The mat and I picked up tremendous speed and then whipped off to the right (or left?).

Cue the screaming.  

Of course, like any great thrill ride, I was sorry when it was over. A sort of welcoming committee of curious passengers with their iPhones was at the bottom, and as I staggered away from the slide, grinning like a maniac, I passed by the Sabor restaurant and thought for a moment about staggering in for a drink. If Sabor was an independently operated restaurant, I would expect management to hang out a sign: "Survived the Abyss: 20% off your next margarita." 

The entrance to the Abyss, 148 feet above sea level.
The entrance to the Abyss, 148 feet above sea level. Photo Credit: Rebecca Tobin

The screaming is an integral part of the experience, even before you even get on the slide. About halfway down, when conditions produce the optimal conditions for euphoric screaming, the sounds can be heard by those waiting in the anglerfish for their turn. When the screaming or whooping drifts up to the anglerfish, the attendant nods with satisfaction, and the rider-to-be chuckles nervously.

By the end of the cruise's second day, roughly two factions had formed: Those who had entered the Abyss and were psyched about the experience, and those who wouldn't dare approach the entrance.

Royal Caribbean chairman Richard Fain is in the latter camp. But the line's president and CEO, Michael Bayley, has taken the plunge. The ship's captain, Gus Andersson, did it under "peer pressure."

"I don't particularly like heights," he said to laughter. "I grabbed the bag, and I went. I was screaming of happiness when I came out of it."

This report was updated on May 22, 2016.

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