Emerson Spa: East meets West ... upstate New York

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NY-EMERSONBEDSeeking a break from the hectic pace of city life, I escaped Manhattan on an Adirondack Trailways bus, headed 2.5 hours north to Mount Tremper in New York's Catskill Mountains and checked myself into the Emerson Resort & Spa.

Stepping through the front door, I was immediately greeted with the scent of fresh lilies and an East Asian-inspired decor that came as a surprise given the resort's exterior, typical of upstate New York lodges.

After the original Emerson burned down in 2005, managing partner Dean Gitter decided to purchase an old farmhouse property directly across the street.

The new facility opened for business in March 2007, incorporating the farmhouse and adding wings on either side of it to house the spa, several luxury suites, a country store and a silo housing what's billed as "the world's largest kaleidoscope."

The resort, with a large conference room and adjoining billiard room, has played host to many New York-based companies looking for a cheaper alternative to international travel when planning off-site business retreats.

"I think our close proximity to the city, along with the fact that our services are offered a la carte, has made us a really attractive destination," said Public Relations Director Tamara Murray.

Bit of Asia upstate

Gitter inherited a set of doors from a 17th century Rajasthani palace and used them as the primary inspiration for the resort's decor. Emerson offers an eclectic blend of Asian artwork, from sculptures to screen prints, opulent light fixtures bearing colored glass and reams of silk draped over runners hanging from the ceilings. The effect can be a bit disorienting at first, but if the decor of the common areas left me underwhelmed, that of my suite accommodations did not.

Sitting about 50 yards from Esopus Creek, the two-story loft suite included two bathrooms, a two-person Jacuzzi, Swedish showers, a fireplace, a deck, a TV and DVD player and a wine bar stocked to the hilt. After a relaxing bath, I headed down to the resort's on-site restaurant. Specializing in New American cuisine, the Phoenix Restaurant, open for breakfast and dinner, offers a broad menu of fine foods.

"The menu will change seasonally," said Thomas Turke, Emerson's culinary arts director. "We look for local vendors to supply us with fresh fruits and vegetables."

All of the restaurant's cheeses are also purchased from local vendors.

After a meal that included a beet salad; lamb with peppers; lobster-and-pea ravioli; and a rib eye steak, I headed back to my room for a good night's sleep.

The next morning, I had a pot of coffee delivered to my room, got ready and grabbed breakfast at the Phoenix before checking out the spa.

NY-EMERSONSPAIt is there that the Emerson truly shines. The spa facilities include a sauna and steam room, indoor whirlpool, relaxation room, a 1,500-square-foot fitness center and a full-service salon. Treatments offered include ayurveda, shiatsu and Swedish massage, hydrotherapies, body scrubs, wraps and facials.

Upon entering the spa, guests pass through the aforementioned Rajasthani doors, which lead to a beautiful, dimly lit waiting area.

After a deep-tissue massage and a short stint in the sauna and steam room, the tensions of city life had completely vanished. I returned to my room, where I stayed for the remainder of the day, enjoying the Jacuzzi and fireplace and watching movies from the resort's extensive, on-site DVD collection.

Going hippie in Woodstock

The Emerson provides free shuttle service for guests looking to visit its surrounding attractions, so I headed into Woodstock, the small town that lent its name to the legendary '60s rock festival, to have a look around and grab some dinner.

The town doesn't disappoint travelers looking for remnants of the 1969 concert held nearby that made it famous, with several hippie-themed shops specializing in Janis Joplin and Jimi Hendrix memorabilia; tie-dyed T-shirts; incense; and, well, marijuana paraphernalia. But in catering to the lifestyle of many hippies who turned yuppies, Woodstock also offers several high-end wine and cheese shops, art galleries and clothiers.

I headed to Cucina, a new restaurant offering amazing cuisine out of an old-style Adirondack house about a 10-minute walk from the center of town.

With some time to spare after dinner, I walked around town looking for colorful personalities, and indeed I found one at Miss G's Antique Yard Sale, a resale shop where Miss G herself strummed a guitar and treated me to a rendition of "Georgia on My Mind" while I perused her wares.

I headed back to the Emerson to get the best night's sleep I can recall. That morning I grabbed yet another breakfast at the Phoenix and took one last dip in the Jacuzzi to round out my relaxing weekend getaway before returning to New York.

Rates for luxury suites at the Emerson start at $319 per night. Visit www.emersonresort.com or call (877) 688-2828.

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