Small-ship cruising along Croatia's Dalmatian coast is a vacation option that's no doubt making it to the top of many clients' wish lists these days. And a great way to enjoy this experience, as I did recently, is with a local company.
I had the opportunity to sail last summer with Always Croatia, a company founded by Croatian American Christy Kranjec that combines authentic, immersive experiences with visits to lesser-known destinations during seven-day sailings between Dubrovnik and Sibenik.
My cruise was aboard the newly renovated, 36-passenger San Antonio, which debuted with the company last spring. I found Always Croatia's curated itineraries to be ideal for curious, independent travelers who can experience the real Croatia, from Unesco-listed cities and hidden coves to onshore cooking classes and farmstead dinners.
Here are six features that made sailing the Dalmatian coast with Always Croatia stand out for me.
Sailboats docked in the harbor at dusk in Stari Grad, on Hvar. Photo Credit: Veronica Stoddart
Small ports
Showcasing smaller, less-visited ports where bigger ships can't go, our itinerary revealed a less-touristy view of the country.
Sightseeing spots included some of Croatia's 1,200-plus islands, where age-old towns hug the shoreline. In some ports, expert-guided walking tours provided an insightful introduction, after which there was time for us to explore on our own. In others, we just strolled into town without the need for cumbersome tenders.
Among the standouts: Primosten, whose lovely medieval Old Town was named one of Europe's best hidden gems of 2024, and the triangular Golden Horn beach on Brac island, considered the country's best strand. On the forest-clad island of Mljet, we swam, kayaked and biked in its lake-dotted national park.
On Hvar, we took a golden-hour walk along Stari Grad's sailboat-dappled harbor, admiring sun-drenched limestone buildings. In the island's glam Hvar Town, sleek megayachts set the tone for a sizzling apres-sea scene in the chic waterfront restaurants and cafes. We explored the living museum of Korcula, claimed as Marco Polo's birthplace and one of Europe's best-preserved medieval towns.
We didn't miss the big showstoppers, either, from Dubrovnik's iconic, pedestrian-only Old Town to Split, where we elbowed our way through the third century Diocletian's Palace.
A farmhouse dinner overlooking vineyards and olive groves on the island of Hvar rivaled anything the author has experienced in Napa or Provence. Photo Credit: Veronica Stoddart
Dinners on shore
A rare feature of an Always Croatia cruise is the opportunity to have dinner on shore, an incomparable way to sample local cuisine alongside residents. While we ate breakfast and lunch onboard, most evenings we dined at a restaurant of our choice.
Among the most memorable for me was Bokeria Kitchen & Wine Bar in Split, a feast of Spanish tapas and Croatian-Spanish fusion dishes. On Korcula, I sampled modern Dalmatian dishes (milk-marinated shark, anyone?) at the Michelin-listed Filippi restaurant perched on a waterfront bluff. On tiny Mljet, dinner was superb grilled scampi at Konoba Galija right at the water's edge.
Tapas dishes at Bokeria Kitchen & Wine Bar in Split, Croatia. Photo Credit: Veronica Stoddart
Evenings in town
Overnight dockings also allowed us to enjoy evenings on land without having to worry about rushing back to the ship before it departed, something that's typical of many cruises. Seeing towns perk up at night was magical, as boardwalk promenaders licked their ubiquitous gelatos, outdoor cafes filled up with smiling friends, and dog lovers took their pooches for a stroll.
In the gorgeous hill town of Makarska, which sees few cruise ships, we ambled the cobblestone waterfront lined with stalls selling fried fish, octopus, squid and sardines to celebrate Fisherman's Night, a popular summer event.
In Stari Grad, I lingered with shipboard friends one night, people-watching until 11 o'clock at an outdoor cafe -- another perk of a cruise that features overnight dockings.
Travelers watch as a woman seals the dough before baking soparnik, a traditional savory pie from the Dalmatian region. Photo Credit: Veronica Stoddart
Cultural enrichment
Always Croatia showcased culturally authentic experiences, both on shore and onboard.
In an abandoned stone village, we helped a local family make soparnik, a traditional savory pie from the Dalmatian region that is recognized by Unesco as a living heritage.
At the onboard Captain's Dinner, two male musicians entertained us with traditional Dalmatian klapa singing as they belted out tunes of love and life.
On Hvar, we had a farmhouse dinner that rivaled anything in Napa or Provence. Amid ancient vineyards, gnarled olive groves and fragrant lavender fields within a Unesco-protected landscape, we feasted on farm-fresh dishes and homemade wines as the setting sun painted the grounds.
A swim deck with two ladders made it easy to take a plunge into the Adriatic for some swimming or watersports. Photo Credit: Veronica Stoddart
Shipside swimming
By anchoring in secluded bays, the ship provided multiple opportunities to take the plunge into the Adriatic's diamond-clear waters. A swim deck with two ladders, rare for most ships, made it easy to take a dip and frolic with snorkeling gear, stand-up paddleboards, floats and SeaBob watercraft.
Slow travel
This cruise was "slow travel" at its best, as we crawled along the coast at a snail's pace. It helped us embrace the Croatian philosophy of pomalo, taking it easy and enjoying the moment.
From lazy hours napping or reading on the top deck to leisurely swims off the ship, we had ample downtime. That made the cruise feel like a real vacation rather than a forced march. And who would have a problem with that?