At almost any time of the day, Maui's Kaanapali Beach beach is alive with surfers, swimmers and the general buzz of tourists enjoying the three-mile stretch of soft sand and clear waters.
But at 6:30 on a July morning, the iconic beach was calm and mostly empty as guests at the Kaanapali Alii took part in a sunrise hi'uwai, a traditional Hawaiian cleansing ritual that includes asking for gratitude, forgiveness and inspiration and then walking into the ocean.
The family-friendly ritual -- if your kids don't mind waking with the sun -- offered a unique view of Maui and an ideal setting to try to absorb the cultural significance of the moment.
Being able to experience the hi'uwai right on the property's beachfront, as the sun rose behind the resort over the West Maui Mountains, is one of the many ways the Kaanapali Alii is a standout for families visiting the island. The 264-unit resort offers very spacious one- and two-bedroom units of 1,500 to 1,900 square feet, all with full-size kitchens, bathrooms and large living rooms.
The master bedroom leads to the lanai. Both bedrooms have attached full bathrooms. Photo Credit: Johanna Jainchill
The long lanai of our oceanfront two-bedroom was outfitted with a dining table and loungers.
The resort's prime Kaanapali Beach location meant not having to drive much while there. Situated right along the Kaanapali Beachwalk, there was plenty of dining and activity within strolling distance of the property.
Just a three-minute walk past one hotel to the left and we were at the Kaanapali Surf Club, where we enjoyed a morning of surf lessons. To the right was Whalers Village, with great dining options and a small grocery store (not the best to stock the kitchen for a long stay but fine for the three nights we had).
Farther down is Black Rock beach, or Pu'u Keka'a, a highlight of many Maui vacations, where there is a daily sunset torch-lighting ceremony with cliff divers and where my son and dozens of others spent hours during the day making the plunge from the black lava rocks, which I've been told are about 20 feet high.
The living room of the unit was modern. Photo Credit: Johanna Jainchill
Hybrid resort experience
The Kaanapali Alii is different than many Hawaiian resorts in the sense that it's a hybrid resort and vacation rental.
It has most of the amenities one expects at a full-service resort: a fitness center, spa, tennis courts, a pool area and a 24-hour front desk. Its concierge service will arrange anything from a luau to a babysitter to helicopter rides.
What the resort doesn't have are any on-site restaurants or cafes, and because each unit is individually owned, they are not uniformly furnished.
Our unit seemed newly renovated and furnished -- or just extremely well-maintained.
The fully provisioned kitchen had high-end appliances such as a Sub-Zero refrigerator, and the Kaanapali Alii will supply a starter stock of groceries upon request. It's certainly a nice option for families coming off a long flight to not have to worry about stopping at the grocery store first thing.
A very important amenity for families spending more than a few days on a sandy, active vacation is the in-unit laundry room found in every accommodation.
The well-appointed kitchen in a two-bedroom unit at the Kaanapali Alii. Photo Credit: Johanna Jainchill
Grilling and chilling
It was hard to beat breakfast on our lanai looking at the Pacific Ocean. We enjoyed the lanai so much we also had several lunches and takeout meals there (be sure to try the Da Nani Pirates food truck in Whalers Village.)
But one of the more unique amenities the resort offers is the service of the resident Grill Master.
Next to the Kaanapali Alii's two pools and hot tubs, guests gather around communal oceanfront grills and dining tables every evening around sunset. Guests can man the grills themselves or use the services of Cromwell, who will expertly grill any meat, fish or vegetables brought to him. Cromwell grilled our fish with a delicious rub and also made us a Hawaiian-style fried rice. The grill master's services are complimentary and available on a first-come, first-served basis from 5 to 9 p.m.
Staying on Kaanapali Beach means enjoying the sunset scene, and nowhere is better for that then Hula Grill. The Whalers Village restaurant was packed when we landed a choice outdoor table close to the Beachwalk. I highly recommend Hula's "high-end" version of the mai tai, the Akamai Tai, which comes with a float of Hawaii's Koloa dark rum, and the mahi-mahi with macadamia nut crust, topped with crab.