Travelers get a lot of fun and sun in Playa del Carmen

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No longer undiscovered but not-yet-overdeveloped Playa del Carmen, the Yucatan destination just 40 miles south of Cancun, is a distinctly stylish and colorful beachside town that is quickly becoming the capital of Mexico's booming Riviera Maya. Sure, Cancun is about an hour up the road, but its hedonistic and frat-house atmosphere can wear thin on those looking for charm.

Moreover, Playa del Carmen's white-sand beaches are gorgeous, while the town's location makes it an excellent jumping-off point for ferry rides to Cozumel as well as ground excursions to eco-parks, cenote swimming holes and Mayan ruins.

Consequently, boutique hotels and refined restaurants sprung up. Today, avant-garde, minimalist hotels; hip, retro lounges; high-design, poolside bars; and white-washed, Mediterranean-style villas can be found in the Old Town section of Playa del Carmen.

The Old Town section's axis lies one block off the beach along a 20-block pedestrian walkway known as Quinta Avenida, or Fifth Avenue.

This red-brick promenade mainly accounts for the town's newly born status as a happening nightlife destination.

Although kitschy souvenir shops and chain restaurants take up some of the storefronts, the corridor maintains a creative, bohemian edge owing to artists who have moved here en masse.

When the sun goes down

On a recent visit, I indulged myself in Playa del Carmen nightlife, first dropping by Tequila Fiesta Silvery Gallery, a crafts and spirits shop where owner and artist Rony Eliad was more than happy to coax me along with a generous sampling of oaky tequilas brewed from boutique distilleries in Jalisco.

The shop carries silver jewelry items and Eliad's cubist Mayan renderings, which adorn both the gallery walls and Tres Mujeres tequila's hand-painted labels.

Other art galleries of interest include Perla, on Fifth Avenue, and Yava, at the corner of Fifth and 10th Street, which carry crafts from assorted regions, including re-creations of Mayan stone tablets, ornately painted crosses from Chiapas, Oaxacan weavings and candy-colored gourd lamps from Pueblo.

Wanting to leave the street behind, I headed over to the second-floor terrace at the Deseo Hotel, a member of Mexico Boutique Hotels. A deejay was turning out flamenco fusion beats amid a young, jet-set crowd lounging on poolside daybeds.

I sat at the candlelit, open-air bar, cucumber martini in hand, and took in the all-white decor.

It's a design ethos reminiscent of South Beach, but Mick Jagger hasn't been here yet, and neither has Shaquille O'Neal nor Paris Hilton. The atmosphere is subdued. Playa del Carmen is exciting but not too outrageous.

It was also still very early. The sun was just going down, and Playa's nightlife begins to take off after 10 p.m.

With time on my hands, I headed over to Deseo's sister property, the industrial-chic Hotel Basico, also a member of Mexico Boutique Hotels. The property is one block away, on the corner of Fifth Avenue and 10th Street.

The 15-room Basico Hotel, as its name implies, has a stripped-down, recycled aesthetic with pools fashioned from old gas containers and a lobby lined with tire strips.

Guests are transported to the rooftop bar, Azotea, by a freight elevator, where daybeds and a deejay set a trancelike mood.

Azotea has an excellent food and bar scene and is ideal for hipsters and young couples looking to throw themselves in the heart of Playa nightlife.

Like great urbane locales, Playa del Carmen is filled with side streets that invite exploration.

Hanging a left down 10th Street, I found Babe's, an Asian noodle bar festooned with 1940s pinup-girl posters. The bar's lipstick-red walls are seductively campy and the deep, leather-padded booths lend the low-ceilinged establishment additional design credibility. I dined on yellow curry and pad Thai dishes, both exceptional bargains at $6 each.

Across the street, statues of dancing frogs hoisting cocktail glasses into the air set the tone for the welcoming Bar Ranita, a cozy recess cut out from the attached Hotel La Rancha Cansada.

Manager Jez Searle proudly told me of flying in a Swedish band for an upcoming Halloween bash. "We're like Caribbean tribal people," said Searle of the high-spirited and friendly crowd that looked to be equal parts local and expat.

As Abba songs trailed off behind me, I headed back to 12th Street and Fifth Avenue, Playa del Carmen's epicenter for late-night fun. Tops on this strip is Santanera, a darkly lit, two-level club with kitschy decoration alluding to Mexican wrestlers and santeria, a mystical religion of Afro-Caribbean origin.

On the downward, sloping portion of 12th Street leading to the beach is Diablito's Cha Cha Cha, an open palapa-style restaurant-lounge that strikes a retro 1950s decor and spins a variety of music, including funk, hip and groove. Diablito's is definitely the hang-out spot for the beautiful people of Playa.

Also worth checking out is the relaxed Indonesian vibe at OM Lounge and Blue Parrot, a Playa institution which turns its daytime beach frolic into an evening dance club.

Fine dining

As for fine dining, one can't go wrong with the Glass Bar's homemade pasta and marinated octopus carpaccio served with an olive tapenade.

"We don't use any cream or butter; we use olive oil and tomatoes," said owner Daniele Personali, by way of distinguishing the restaurant's Mediterranean influence.

Across the street, Glass Bar's owners recently opened Di Vino, a wine bar and restaurant with an open veranda that comfortably spills out onto the bustling promenade.

Together, the two establishments lend this part of town an undeniable European ambience, the kind where patrons are greeted with warm hellos, where food and spirits are a celebration of life.

For those saving their appetite for something more culturally authentic, they can try the Mayan cuisine at Yaxche, considered by some to be the best restaurant along the Mayan Riviera.

A fusion of Maya, Yucatecan and European cuisine, some dishes are unchanged and cooked in traditional ways.

Others are Mayan with a twist, like shrimp relleno negro, a spicy black sauce traditionally served with turkey. Or Yaxche's version of the chile relleno, a banana pepper stuffed with a tangy pork called cochinita pibil. Ingredients such as sour orange and achiote (a paste made from annatto seeds) pack an unforgettably zesty and complex wallop.

Dining at Yaxche captured what, in the end, gives Playa del Carmen its pleasing edginess.

The town's greatest joys aren't concentrated in one standout restaurant or club. They pop up in a balanced melding of old and new, bohemian and avant-garde, traditional and fusion.

It's as if Playa del Carmen's food, crafts and architectural design evolved to match the tropical beach setting. And if change has greatly transformed this once sleepy fishing village, for now the balance seems just about right.

To contact the reporter who wrote this article, send e-mail to [email protected].

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