Bermuda is an island defined by its isolation, a tiny hook of volcanic rock and coral in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean.
Its culinary origins were born of necessity: British shipwreck survivors survived on what they could scavenge from the land and sea. Naturally, Bermuda's food offerings have evolved, and to understand the island's food scene is to taste the offerings at two iconic resorts: the historical Hamilton Princess & Beach Club and the ultramodern Loren Bermuda.
On a recent stay in Bermuda, my first stop was the Hamilton Princess, known as the "Pink Palace." Since its debut in 1885, it has served as the island's social anchor. My introduction to the property's culinary options was Intrepid, the flagship steak, seafood and raw bar that opened in 2022. The modern restaurant pairs dark wood and leather with a classic steak-and-seafood menu that celebrates Bermudian-sourced seafood and organic produce. This fusion of tradition and luxury reflects the property's deeper identity as a social landmark.
The Pink Phonebooth, a drink served at the Intrepid, comes in a replica of the property's patio landmark. It's a blend of vodka, guava, citrus, pineapple and sparkling wine. Photo Credit: Hamilton Princess & Beach Club
"Hamilton Princess draws on the hotel's long-standing role as a gathering place, 'Bermuda's Front Porch,' so to speak, where locals and international guests have always intersected," said Shawn Lekki, director of food and beverage for the resort.
"Local flavors, fresh seafood, rum cocktails and tradition are at the heart of Bermuda's culinary heritage."
The kitchen turned out golden, crisp-edged crab cakes and whole Maine lobsters alongside a lineup of Australian and U.S. strip loins. I skipped the heavier fare for the Veg Nori Rolls, a refreshing blend of cucumber, mango, asparagus and avocado.
Beyond the steak and seafood staples, the restaurant's bar leans into playful cocktails, notably with The Pink Phonebooth. Served in a replica of the property's patio landmark, the bubbly blend of Grey Goose Strawberry Essence Vodka, guava, citrus, pineapple and sparkling rose was meant to be Instagrammed.
Whimsical drinks aside, there is a strong sense of tradition at the hotel. The elegant Crown & Anchor was added as part of the property's multimillion-dollar renovation in 2015, and the all-day lobby restaurant serves some of Bermuda's beloved national dishes. Menu features include the traditional Bermudian fish chowder made with rum and sherry peppers, served with a side of johnny bread. Another signature dish is Bermuda's fish sandwich, a unique combination of fried cod, coleslaw, tomato and tartar sauce between slices of raisin bread.
A sampling of the menu items at the Hamilton Princess restaurant Intrepid, which includes oysters, steak and sushi rolls. Photo Credit: Hamilton Princess & Beach Club
Tea time
During afternoon tea from 3 to 5 o'clock, tiered stands arrive laden with cucumber finger sandwiches and warm scones served with clotted cream and preserves. A time-honored ritual in Bermuda, the tea also includes the option of a glass of prosecco or Veuve Clicquot Champagne.
Another highlight is the hotel's beach club, just a 20-minute ride away, which serves up Bermuda's signature drinks. Few experiences on the island beat sinking your toes into the rosy-tinted sand with a rum swizzle or a dark 'n' stormy, both made with Bermuda's own Gosling's Black Seal rum.
Visiting the Hamilton Princess was the perfect entry to tasting the island's famous dishes; the property leans into established culinary lore, with meals served in modern, high-design restaurant settings.
"The culinary program doesn't try to compete with its own legacy," Lekki said. "It uses it as a point of authenticity, layering in creativity, diversity and a forward-looking mindset to remain relevant to today's global traveler."
If the Hamilton Princess is a love letter to Bermuda's heritage, then The Loren Bermuda, where I checked in for the second half of my stay, is its manifesto for the future. Opened in 2017, the 49-room hotel is perched on the rugged south shore, the luxe guestrooms overlooking the wild Atlantic surf.
The cliffside boutique hotel boasts two restaurants: The Pink Beach Club, a casual outdoor restaurant, and Maree Lounge, a swanky space with intimate tables set amid a gallery of framed art. The restaurant's culinary philosophy reflects the hotel's mission of sustainability and innovation.
Guests at The Loren can enjoy lionfish two ways: filleted or in a ceviche. The fish are caught by local divers just a few hundred feet offshore from the hotel. Photo Credit: The Loren Bermuda
High-end dining in Bermuda often relies on expensive imports, but The Loren has turned this on its head by fostering deep relationships with local foragers and divers to source hyperlocal ingredients for its dishes. For instance, the lionfish experience lets you enjoy the fresh fish caught by seasoned divers just a few hundred feet offshore, which is then prepared into fillets and ceviche by master chefs.
The hotel also keeps its pulse on the global culinary world, often inviting chefs for its Summer Guest Chef Series. Launched in 2021, the annual series invites Michelin-starred and James Beard Award-winning chefs and television personalities to experiment with Bermudian ingredients. Past guests have included "Top Chef" stars Eric Adjepong and Nina Compton.
This summer, the series will welcome Food Network personality Esther Choi and "Top Chef" winner Kelsey Bernard Clark, among others.
"We've worked to develop an intentional balance between local authenticity and global creativity, which has helped position The Loren as a destination for culinary discovery," said Tarryn Clark, general manager for The Loren Bermuda.
"Culinary collaboration allows us to bring fresh perspectives and international influences to our guests while celebrating the creativity of both established and emerging talent."
Summer pop-up
The property is also gearing up for another major event in its summer calendar. The hotel's indoor restaurant, Maree, will be transformed into a new dining concept, Shio by The Loren, a Nikkei Japanese-Peruvian pop-up focused on raw seafood dishes. I had a chance to taste items on the new menu, which featured bright sushi and sashimi rolls along with traditional Japanese and Peruvian drinks like sake and pisco sours.
Ultimately, the culinary journey between these two resorts is a microcosm of Bermuda itself. The Hamilton Princess was a taste of tradition, with dishes honoring the heritage recipes that put this island on the map. At The Loren, the menus are shaped by chefs who celebrate Bermuda's local bounty while inviting global flavors to the table.
Together, they create a culinary conversation as complex and unique as the island they call home.