ABOARD THE PRIDE OF HAWAII -- As passengers on the deck gazed at the emerald cliffs of Kauai's Na Pali coastline last week, it is fair to say they probably were not thinking about executives at Norwegian Cruise Line's headquarters in Miami.

But this ship and two sister vessels plying Hawaiian waters were no doubt very much on the minds of NCL management, because they represent an extremely challenging business model.

On its face, NCL's Hawaii plan seems like a recipe for success: Be the only cruise line able to sail a chain of picturesque, tropical islands with one language, culture and currency.

Yet NCL's Hawaii venture has generated a long trail of troubles for the world's third- largest cruise company.

The upside is that as U.S.-flagged vessels, NCL America's Pride of Aloha, Pride of America and Pride of Hawaii, are the only ships that can offer seven-day, interisland cruises in Hawaii without having to make a stop at an international port.

But being U.S.-flagged vessels also means having to employ American crews, pay U.S. wages and forgo an onboard casino, all of which detracts from the value of the company's seven-day Hawaii cruise business. 

During NCL's last earnings call, the challenges of its Hawaii program were blamed for much of the company's 2006 loss of $130.9 million, compared with a $16.2 million profit in 2005.

The strongest indication of continued weakness was NCL's decision not to replace the Norwegian Wind, the one foreign-flagged ship NCL sails in Hawaii, when it transfers the vessel to sister company Star Cruises' Asia fleet in June. The Norwegian Sun was supposed to take its place, but NCL decided to send that ship to Miami instead.

"There will be no further downsizing," Andy Stuart, NCL's executive vice president of sales and marketing, said during an interview at the Seatrade event in Miami last month. "We will examine the whole business to make sure we're optimizing it."

Stuart and NCL CEO Colin Veitch mostly blamed increased competition from foreign-flagged competitors for recent pricing pressure in Hawaii.

Capacity expansion

"We have seen enormous capacity expansion," Stuart said. "We didn't expect to see that level of increase in the foreign-flagged market. There is a significant addition of itineraries with a Hawaii component."  

Stuart and Veitch also acknowledged that much of that capacity increase came from NCL's own ships. Veitch said during the earnings call that "consecutive quarters of 60% NCL America capacity growth" had contributed to "severe downward pricing pressure, as well." 

Holland America Line will increase sailings that include Hawaii from 11 in 2006 to 14 this year and to 18 in 2008. Princess Cruises increased the number of cruises that include Hawaii to 22 this year and next, from 15 last year. Only Celebrity Cruises will reduce its Hawaii visits, to 11 this year from 13 in 2006.  

However, unlike those three brands, NCL America is not a premium cruise line, and its ships are still the only ones offering seven-day, interisland cruises that begin and end in Honolulu. The foreign-flagged ships generally require 15-day itineraries so they have time to include a foreign port, usually Vancouver or Ensenada, Mexico. Some ships stop in Hawaii on much longer South Pacific voyages.

NCL America's Hawaii fares are less expensive than the HAL and Princess cruises, and their seven-day sailings are designed for vacationers who can take only a week off -- a school break, for example. 

The Norwegian Wind sails a longer, 11-day Hawaii itinerary that touches the closest foreign port to Hawaii, Fanning Island, part of the Republic of Kiribati, which is two sea days from Hawaii and two back. The Pride of Aloha will take over that route when the Wind moves to Asia.  

The economic reality of staffing a U.S.-flagged ship means paying unionized workers U.S. wages, overtime, benefits and vacation. It also means dealing with high turnover and a relatively small pool of workers willing to live at sea for months a at a time.

What's more, that expensive workforce early on earned a reputation for lacking the service ethic associated with the mostly Asian and Eastern European staff on foreign-flagged ships. Overcoming that rap now seems among NCL America's biggest challenges.

On a recent cruise aboard the Pride of Hawaii, many passengers had come looking for problems. They had heard things; they had read comments on Internet chat boards; their travel agents had warned them.

Many were pleasantly surprised.

On the last evening of the cruise, Jasbina Ahluwalia and her husband, Rajnish Jain, lounged above the pool deck and reminisced about a week they had enjoyed so much that they declared they would only do NCL's "Freestyle" cruises in the future.

Pleased with the Pride?

"The idea of getting dressed up for dinner and having to eat at a proscribed time is not our idea of a vacation," said Ahluwalia, a lawyer and founder of Intersections, a matchmaking service in San Francisco.

The couple said they had been pleased with the variety of onboard eateries; some nights they would visit several, trying an entree from each. They also enjoyed shore excursions like parasailing in Maui.

As to why she had chosen this cruise in the first place, Ahluwalia said, "It really attracted us to see four islands in a week's time and spend so much time in each port. We came in with no preconceived notions and no expectations."

But preconceived notions were definitely part of the baggage that some of the 2,200 passengers had brought onboard.

A couple from England said they had heard the American staff was not on par with an international staff.

"Maybe the crew hasn't jelled together yet," said Ian Rixon. "But they haven't gotten their act together. The staff has no urgency at all. They don't do 'hurry.' 

"On a cruise you expect to be pampered. The expectation here is you do it yourself. They are taking the Freestyle concept to be too free."

On the flip side, Ted Herd and his wife, Lauren, of Foresthill, Calif., who had previously sailed with both Carnival Cruise Lines and Royal Caribbean International, said they found the staff to be hard working, accommodating and friendly. They also said they felt that the demands of their fellow cruisers were unreasonable.

"Some people expect servants," Ted said. "People on cruises have delusions of grandeur."

Several experienced cruisers said they felt the staff were polite but not deferential enough. A man from Chicago said that as nice as his server was, he was too "buddy-buddy" with him. On the other hand, the Pride of Hawaii's hotel director, Scott Hamby, said that many guests viewed such familiarity as a plus.

"I get comments from passengers that they are able to convey their thoughts and have casual conversations [with the crew] because there is a lot of commonality," Hamby said. "People don't get an awful lot of that on an international ship. ... They don't have that common ground with the crew."

He also noted the advantage of avoiding language barriers while still having a crew as diverse as the U.S. population. Indeed, the staff's tags showed them hailing from all 50 states as well as Guam and American Samoa.

The Freestyle concept seems to work well on the Pride of Hawaii, primarily because it is a port-intensive cruise. The trip offers 96 hours in port and two overnights, in Maui and Kauai. Passengers return to the ships at all hours of the day and can eat at any of the ship's 12 eateries whenever they want. Five of the restaurants have additional fees of $10 to $20.

"It's nice to come back from an excursion and be starving and go eat a nice dinner and not have to go to the Lido because your dining room seating is at 8:30," the passenger from Chicago said aboard a catamaran on a snorkeling excursion.

As for passengers who complained that lines were too long and that differing reservations policies led to long waits, Hamby said it was a peak dinner hour phenomenon.

"I can only compare it to being back home at my favorite restaurant," he said. "If I go at the most popular peak time of 7 o'clock or 7:30, there's going to be a wait."

Outside peak hours, he said, passengers usually don't have to wait, even at the ship's most popular restaurants.

To contact reporter Johanna Jainchill, send e-mail to [email protected].

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