Nothing sells a tropical vacation better
than the promise of a palm-lined stretch of sand along a warm,
welcoming seashore. Such shaded strands, many of unique hue and
texture, are to be found along the coasts of the Hawaiian Islands.
There are white and beige beaches of pulverized coral and limestone
and black, red, brown and green beaches of volcanic origins.
All beaches in
Hawaii are open to the public to the high-water mark. There are no
private beaches in the state, although there are stretches of sand
that are simply not accessible to the average visitor.
The westernmost
of the main islands, Kauai and Oahu, are also the most eroded,
being several million years older than the islands to the east.
Erosion has created a veritable lei of beaches around both islands,
including some of Hawaii's longest, most spectacular and
legendary.
In this two-part
series, I will nominate my picks for best beaches in Hawaii. Most
of the beaches selected are easily accessible, although a few are
off the beaten path.
In this first
installment, Kauai and Oahu.
Kauai
For many,
Kauai is the island of South Seas dreams, with beaches that have
appeared in movie versions of the ultimate paradise. The best of
Kauai's beaches are:
"
Lumahai: About half way between Hanalei and the end of the
road at Haena, Lumahai is best viewed from a hillside vantage near
the five-mile marker.
Lumahai is
actually two beaches separated by a lava rock promontory, with the
first cliffs of the Na Pali coast as a backdrop. A short trail
leads to the beach, which, while wide and beautiful, also fronts
often-treacherous waters best enjoyed only on calm days.
"
Polihale: Hawaii's longest beach stretches for miles along
the island's isolated west coast. It takes a drive through west-end
cane fields to reach the dunes that back the beach, which offer
spectacular views of the westernmost cliffs on the Na Pali
coast.
There's a
wonderfully wild feeling to Polihale, which offers magnificent
sunsets, with the sun 
making a silhouette of the
island of Niihau.
"
Mahaulepu (Poipu): This last wild stretch of Kauai's sunny
south coast includes a long, idyllic beach that welcomes
beachcombing and near-shore swimming, although caution is advised
because the waters can be rough.
Entry starts with
a check-in at the guardhouse, just past the golf course, that
provides access to the private road that leads to the beach. There
are no services nearby, so beach-goers should bring water and
snacks.
"
Hanalei: The setting, with cloud-draped, sawtooth
mountains hung with waterfalls as a backdrop, makes Hanalei, at the
heart of the fabled North Shore, special.
The beige-sand
beach is wide and long. Calm waters usually prevail, which is a
plus for swimming, kayaking and snorkeling. Sand extends into
Hanalei Bay, allowing easy entry, which makes Hanalei a good choice
for those traveling with children ages 12 and younger.
Oahu
The most
urbanized of Hawaii's islands, Oahu nonetheless has many miles of
uncrowded beaches, including Hawaii's two most famous: Waikiki and
Waimea.
"
Waikiki: Despite erosion and crowds, or perhaps because of
them, there is no way to ignore Hawaii's most famous beach,
actually a series of beaches that stretches more than 1.5 miles
along the crescent shores of Waikiki Bay.
In Polynesian
times, much of Waikiki was off-limits to all but chiefs, who had
homes here as well as taro patches and fish ponds that kept them
well-fed.
Waikiki's waters
are kept calm by a sheltering reef about a half-mile offshore. This
same reef creates the long waves that attract surfers to
Waikiki.
This month, Waikiki is midway through a
sand-replenishment program, siphoning the equivalent of 1,000
truckloads of sand that has drifted offshore and settled at
2,000-foot depths.
Much of that sand
was brought to Waikiki by barge from Molokai, and later from
Australia, when removing sand from Hawaii beaches was made
illegal.
"
Hanauma: A half-mile-long crescent of sand facing the
reef-filled waters of a volcanic cinder cone breached by the sea,
the Hanauma Bay Marine Preserve offers a perfect place for safe
snorkeling that includes viewing an abundance of colorful
fish.
Visitors should
head here midday to avoid the morning crowds that fill the parking
lot and create entry lines.
By 2 p.m., the
morning arrivals have left, the sun is still high over the beach
and the reef is less crowded. There is an admission fee, a visitor
center and a compulsory bit of reef etiquette training.
Windward Oahu
Virtually all
of Windward Oahu's beaches are visually spectacular, with sands
that stretch between tropic-hued waters and lush mountains. Here's
a look at my four favorites:
"
Waimanalo: A miles-long rampart of sheer cliffs, more than
1,200 feet at their tallest, provides a backdrop for Waimanalo's
long, wide and uncrowded beach.
Offshore shallows
are good for swimming, taking in a setting worthy of national park
status.
"
Kailua: No place else in Hawaii has Kailua's powdery sand,
brilliantly white against seas of tropic blue.
Several small
islets welcome strong swimmers and kayakers, with both warned to be
aware that these islands are a bird sanctuary.
The beach is
partly a state park but continues for several miles along the
shores of Kailua Bay, spectacular every step of the way. Strong
winds invite kitesurfers and windsurfers, with near-shore swimming
generally safe.
"
Sunset: The name says it all, with long stretches of beige
sand and panoramic coastal views that take in the ridges of the
Waianae Mountains.
Beachcombers can
walk the strand for hours and enjoy the grandeur of incoming waves,
which in winter make this stretch of coast on Oahu's North Shore a
site of world-class surfing competitions. During the summer the
water is much calmer and offers good swimming.
"
Waimea: Waimea's half-mile-long crescent of beige sands
faces aquamarine waters.
In winter, giant
waves race to shore between the bay's rocky arms, making this a
renowned surfer's hangout, which also makes for interesting
viewing. Summer waters are calm, welcoming swimmers to wonderful
deepwater swims.
Local kids spend
the day jumping into Waimea's clear waters from rocky pinnacles
that extend from the shore.
To contact reporter Allan Seiden, send e-mail to [email protected].
Get
More!
For the
second part in the two-part series on Hawaii's best beaches, see
"Beaches, Part II: The best stretches on the
Islands."