Panama City had never been high on my list of places to visit. Nevertheless, thanks to Copa Airlines' stopover program, which allows travelers to spend up to one week in the city at no additional airfare cost, my family found ourselves there with a few days to explore.
Within a few hours of being in the city, my husband asked why we hadn't come sooner. And after a couple of days, my children, ages 11 and 15, asked when we could go back.
My family's fascination with Panama started almost immediately upon arrival. After breakfast at our hotel, La Compania Casco Antiguo, once a hospital and now a painstakingly restored building with soaring arches and stained-glass windows dating back to the 1600s, we set out to explore, spending our first morning wandering through cobblestone streets and a waterfront marketplace in the Unesco-protected historic district of Casco Antiguo (Old Town).
Then, over the next few days, we got to know the city well -- from seeing how the Panama Canal works and how hard it was to build, to the natural wonders that lie just beyond the city limits.
A blend of old and new
Although the Panama Canal and its history may be the main attraction, the city has a rich and storied history beyond its famous waterway. Walking into our hotel, I was immediately struck by the destination's complex history and how it influences life there today.
Hotel La Compania Casco Antiguo has five on-site restaurants. Photo Credit: Hotel La Compania Casco Antiguo
The property is a living museum, reflecting different eras of Panama. It features a Spanish wing, first erected in the 1600s by Jesuit monks; a French wing, originally built in 1739 by a different order of Jesuits who used the building for worship and study; and an American wing, originally built in 1904 as the country's first department store. Those not staying at the hotel can visit the lobby or dine at one of the property's five on-site restaurants, including a cafe and kid-friendly Mexican and Italian options.
My children and I loved wandering around the hotel lobby, looking at historical photographs and learning more about Panama's past. (My son was particularly enamored with a marble relief of Sir Henry Morgan, otherwise known as Captain Morgan, who raided the country in 1671.)
Less than a block from the hotel, there's the Plaza Mayor, once the center of the city's social and spiritual life. Today, the plaza is still flanked by centuries-old churches, joined by modern cafes and a museum.
Panama City embraces its past, but also celebrates its unique position at the "Crossroads of the Americas," perfectly situated between North and South America and the Atlantic and Pacific oceans.
My family loved exploring Casco Antiguo, wandering quaint alleyways and taking in views of the Pacific Ocean. Yet we found that strolling along the nearby Avenida Balboa -- an oceanfront walkway lined with palm trees, playgrounds and vendors selling Panamanian specialties -- was just as nice with Panama City's iconic skyline and modern financial district within view.
The Panama Canal
Nearly everyone in the United States, including my 11-year-old son, has heard of the Panama Canal. However, I wasn't fully aware of its significance until I saw it for myself.
We booked an early-morning tour of the Miraflores Locks through GetYourGuide to see ships moving through the narrowest parts of the canal. My children were enthralled by watching a ship weighing several thousand tons traverse the canal, pulled by locomotives. Greeted by cheers, the ship's crew came to the deck to wave to spectators as it sailed slowly by.
After watching the ships, we toured a small museum and viewed an IMAX movie at the Miraflores Visitor Center. There, we learned that the Spanish and French had tried to build a canal as early as 500 years before the Americans succeeded, and other fascinating facts about what it took to make the canal a reality.
Panama City by water
I didn't want to leave Panama City without sailing in the Panama Canal myself. And because part of the canal runs directly through Gatun Lake, it was easy to book a boat tour with Tours by Locals that included both wildlife viewing and a short stint in the canal itself.
As my family made our way across the lake and through the canal, we saw enormous boats carrying hundreds of shipping containers up close. My children wondered aloud if the containers held toys, clothing or food that would one day make their way into our home.
A boat tour on Gatun Lake provides plenty of opportunities for viewing wildlife. Photo Credit: Jamie Davis Smith
There's also plenty of opportunities for wildlife viewing. Curious monkeys stared at our small boat as crocodiles swam into the water from the shore next to us. Our guide, Horacio, expertly spotted sloths, birds, turtles and bats. We all stared in awe as monkeys jumped onto our boat to get a better look at us, then laughed when Horacio warned us that they sometimes wander away with unsecured cell phones.
After our boat ride, we joined Horacio on a guided hike in the rainforest. The thick canopy kept us cool as we admired orchid trees and listened to birds chirping around us.
Although my family spent time in the rainforest, families who prefer lazy days on the beach can head to Taboga Island, the closest inhabited island to Panama City, just a 30-minute ferry ride away. It's a popular spot for swimming and kayaking.
An emerging food scene
I had never known Panama City to be a haven for foodies. However, that changed when Cantina del Tigre put the city's dining scene on the map. Opened in 2022, the restaurant won the Highest New Entry Award from 50 Best the following year.
Over the past few years, other fine-dining restaurants have made their debut, such as the French brasserie 1739, which has an impressive wine cellar. My family loved our meal at 1739, and the chef was very accommodating to my kids, who feasted on pizza and mashed potatoes.
We also had a technology-free experience at Villa Anna, a gorgeous restaurant in a restored 1920s mansion where cell phones are banned. While my children weren't initially enthusiastic about locking their phones away during our meal, they begrudgingly complied, and we all had a great time.
Additionally, I'm a coffee lover and was able to book a Geisha coffee experience through La Compania. Geisha coffee, grown only in Panama, is the world's most expensive coffee, and some say the best. I loved learning about its history, seeing how it's prepared and finally tasting it for myself.
Author Jamie Davis Smith (left) with her family in Panama City. Photo Credit: Jamie Davis Smith
Although the destination feels distinctly Latin American, it is very easy to reach: We were able to fly there from our home in Washington, D.C., in under five hours -- and with only a one-hour time difference, we didn't have to battle jet leg when we landed. Once on the ground, we discovered that the city is very safe and affordable. Plus, the country uses the U.S. dollar, removing the complications of conversions.
As we wrapped up our trip, I realized that Panama City is one of those rare destinations that has something for everyone, from beaches and rainforests teeming with wildlife to historical sites, a Colonial old town and world-class dining.