Mount Titlis looms over the village of Engelberg in central Switzerland like an inescapable challenge.
The glacier-topped mountain is the highest in the region, beckoning like a beacon to adrenaline junkies. As the Titlis Xpress gondola rose into the sky, I gazed in awe at the 10,623-foot peak. We were headed for the highest elevation suspension bridge in the EU.
Our guide, Christoph, was the mountain's former slopes and rescue manager and thus had plenty of harrowing tales about avalanches and accidents. You have to be a certain kind of daredevil to ski at altitudes of 10,000 feet with a vertical drop of 6,500 feet.
Once we boarded the Titlis Rotair, the world's first revolving cable car, I realized it was too late to turn back. As we broke through the clouds, the word "breathtaking" took on new meaning. Below me, dozens of off-piste skiers darted across the glistening snowfields like dragonflies on a pond.
The hotel's top floor Titlis Suite is an exclusive aerie with a private bar. Photo Credit: Courtesy of Kempinski Palace Engelberg
At the summit, Christoph ushered us through a glacier cave and out onto a blindingly bright snow plain high above the cloud layer. Suspended at nearly 10,000 feet above sea level, the Titlis Cliff Walk swings and sways above a gaping crevasse nearly 2,000 feet below. I should have known, but no one told me that once I'd reached the other side of the 320-foot steel-cable bridge, I'd have to turn around and walk across the bridge again.
Engelberg is German for "Angel Mountain," which is something to process on your way back down. Located about 15 miles from Lake Lucerne, the village sits in a broad valley surrounded by the Swiss Alps.
The mountain resort was founded in the Middle Ages by a knight errant who said he heard angels singing, instructing him to establish a monastery, which became known as Engelberg Abbey.
Today, Engelberg-Titlis is the largest leisure destination in central Switzerland and host to World Cup ski jumping. The glacier atop Titlis provides a base for fresh snow well into spring. The renowned Swiss architects Herzog & de Meuron have redesigned the mountain station, and by 2029 the iconic tower will be fully operational with a new restaurant, bar and exhibition space.
During the belle epoque, the village of Engelberg was known as "Little Versailles" for its semicircular colonnade of luxury hotels that established the Alpine village as an exclusive wellness resort notable for its therapeutic mineral water and fresh mountain air.
The entrance portico at the Kempinski Palace Engelberg honors the hotel's belle epoque heritage, an era when Engelberg was known as "Little Versailles." Photo Credit: Courtesy of Kempinski Palace Engelberg
Belle epoque made modern
Built in 1905, the Kempinski Palace Engelberg completed a meticulous five-year renovation and reopened in 2021. The resultant five-star-superior hotel is a remarkable example of architectural ingenuity that fuses the original listed building with a new wing overlooking the adjoining Kurpark, a garden and playground in the center of the village.
Rooms and suites at the 129-room hotel are elegant Alpine retreats with wool-upholstered furniture complemented by butter-soft leather accents and parquet floors. The spacious balconies offer enviable perches for band shell concerts in the park with spectacular views of the mountains. The luxurious Swiss beds are manufactured by Elite, and it was tempting to remain in bed like Proust, breakfast tray within reach.
The hotel's original staircase is a marvel of mosaic and marble that makes for a gracious entrance to Afternoon Tea in the Wintergarden. With a wall of full-length windows that overlook the surrounding village, the Wintergarden evokes a lush Victorian conservatory replete with ferns, potted plants and floral bouquets.
During the winter, raclette and fondue are served at the hotel's rustic Chalet Ruinart, a wooden Alpine hut adjoining the hotel. Guests are seated at wooden tables with warm blankets and furs. Tempted by a nightcap, I headed to the hotel's Palace Bar, which offers live music while guests congregate around the original fireplace and horseshoe bar, and the adjoining Habanos Cigar Lounge.
Situated alongside Engelberg's Kurpark, the seasonal Chalet Ruinart replicates the charm of an Alpine chalet, complete with fondue and Ruinart Champagne. Photo Credit: Courtesy of Kempinski Palace Engelberg
Herds on parade
While the population of Engelberg hovers around 4,000, there are more than 400,000 overnight stays annually, with nearly 70% by international visitors. What was once a summer spa destination has become a four-season resort and one of the top 10 ski destinations in Switzerland, notable for its superior off-piste skiing.
In summer, Engelberg offers hiking, climbing, mountaineering, biking and golf as well as an annual Alpine cow parade festival on the final Saturday of September. In one of the most charming Alpine festivals, herds of cattle, sheep and goats descend the Alps and return to the valley for winter while bedizened with floral garlands and crowns.
During the winter, the village is dotted with light sculptures, a total of 12 public artworks that honor its heritage as a holiday destination.
For additional information about Engelberg's history, Tal Museum is located in an 18th century farmhouse in the center of the village. Equally fascinating is a visit to the monastery and its cheese shop. Slightly farther afield, on the banks of Lake Lucerne, is Hergiswil Glassworks, where a tour of the immersive museum is followed by a hands-on, glass-blowing opportunity to create your own bubble vase.
Located 40 minutes by car from Lucerne and 75 minutes from Zurich, Engelberg is also accessible via a private airport as well as a heliport located a stone's throw from the Kempinski Palace Engelberg.