In contrast to the miles of walled resorts along the coast of Cancun, the Royal Playa del Carmen sits in the heart of its namesake city. The adults-only, AAA Four Diamond all-inclusive manages to be both secluded and within casual strolling distance of the city's famed Fifth Avenue, an entertaining jumble of bars, curio stores and surf shops.
It's also a short drive to the ruins of Tulum and a number of cenotes, which are ancient, natural pools that teem with toe-nibbling fish and shaded stalactites. The ferry to Cozumel is steps from the property.
The Royal had far too many activities for my three-day stay, sponsored by Playa Hotels & Resorts. The choices ranged from cooking classes to bike tours and seemingly impromptu poolside dancing. There is even a creative towel-folding class.
My stay included a thorough tequila tasting and one memorable tequila-grasshopper combo. The food is impressive, with eight restaurants ranging from casual buffet (Spice) to gourmet Mexican-French fusion (Maria Marie). I was charmed by the coffee shop, which does custom orders with quality beans.
One evening my group was treated to an indoor performance with flamenco, lasso dancing and trapeze acrobatics. That was part of the weekly "Mexico de Mis Recuerdos (Mexico of My Memories)," and each night featured a different theme.
And where would a beach resort be without a pool? The Royal has an enormous one, with an infinity edge, so vacationers can park their lounge chairs in a few inches of water, as well as a swim-up bar; there's also a dedicated scuba-diving pool. A beach butler patrols the shore, ready to hand out novels, towels and complimentary sunscreen.
The accommodations
It's suites only at the Royal, ranging from the 653-square-foot Junior Suites to palatial, 1,996-square-foot Presidential Suites. Rooms feature a Magic Box, where employees can discreetly drop off or pick up room service. Every suite has a double-jet whirlpool tub and a hammock on the balcony as well as a liquor-dispensing cabinet. Some accommodations are swim-up, so guests can roll out of bed and go directly into the water. The architecture is characterized by a clean, hacienda style, with sweeping views and elegant columns.
With numerous land and water activities, excellent food and luxurious accommodations, the Royal is the first resort where the all-inclusive experience was more than enough for me. Rates for Junior Suites start at $400 for two people in the off-season and about $600 for two in the high season. See www.playaresorts.com.