Sweet success for Hawaii's chocolate producers

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Cacao trees can only be grown 20 degrees north and south of the equator, making Hawaii the only U.S. state that can produce the crop.
Cacao trees can only be grown 20 degrees north and south of the equator, making Hawaii the only U.S. state that can produce the crop. Photo Credit: HTA/Dana Edmunds

Hawaii, thanks to its privileged position as the only state in the tropics, is also the only member of the union that can truly fulfill the entire production cycle for bean-to-bar chocolate.

Recently, that has become a foodie mark of distinction as independent, small and medium craft chocolate producers have ballooned in the U.S. In 2005 there were a handful of bean-to-bar craft chocolate makers in the country, while today there are roughly 200 such producers.

Hawaii, with limited available land and relatively high real estate prices, will most likely never compete with mass chocolate producers around the world. But now that several U.S. manufacturers have shown $10 single-origin chocolate bars are in demand, Hawaii's chocolate makers have found a well-fitting and booming niche.

Cacao trees, which are native to South America, only grow in the warm, humid regions between 20 degrees north and south latitude. Hawaii is right on the northern edge of that limit.

Hawaii has a range of chocolate producers, but the majority are small and medium-sized farms. Some chocolatiers mix beans from multiple farms on the same island or bring together cacao grown on different islands, while others incorporate African and South American beans with the Aloha State varieties. Below is a selection of Hawaiian chocolate producers who also grow their own cacao.

Original Hawaiian Chocolate: True to its name, the Original Hawaiian Chocolate company, founded on Hawaii Island by Bob and Pam Cooper in 1997, was the first bean-to-bar operation in the state. They offer tours of their cacao orchards, and sell treats made from their own beans as well as from more than two dozen other island growers. Advance reservations are required for the one-hour farm tours, held on Wednesdays and Fridays.

Kuaiwi Farm: The 5-acre organic farm in Captain Cook on Hawaii Island grows macadamia nuts, pineapple, tea, coffee and other crops in addition to cacao. They offer a chocolate making class that also includes a farm tour and unlimited chocolate tasting. The tour starts at 9 a.m. and reservations should be made a minimum of three days in advance.

Garden Island Chocolate: On the north shore of Kauai, this is a great spot to indulge in all things chocolate. The chocolate tour and tasting is a three-hour odyssey explaining the cacao tree cultivation, the entire chocolate making process, and tasting including 20 types of chocolate made in Hawaii. Tours are held Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays at 9:30 a.m. and reservations are required.

Steelgrass Farm: This 8-acre farm that grows vanilla and raises honeybees is also Kauai's largest cacao producer. Their farm tour and chocolate tasting includes a guided walk trough botanical gardens, and an 11-course chocolate sampling flight, including the Steelgrass Farm Single Estate 70% cacao bar. The tour runs Monday through Friday from 9 a.m. to noon and advanced reservations are necessary.

Lonohana Hawaiian Estate Chocolate: On Oahu's North Shore, Lonohana is a joint venture of two farming families who grow the cacao for their unique, limited-run bars. The chocolate is released in small batches six times a year to members of the company chocolate club and at their retail store in Honolulu.

Waialua Estate: This farm that also includes a 155-acre coffee plantation grows Criollo, Trinatario and Forestero varieties of cacao and partners with San Francisco-based Guittard Chocolate on its fermentation, processing and bars. The 20-acre orchard was planted in 1996 on former sugarcane land and Waialua Estate chocolate comes in three varieties: milk, semisweet and dark.

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