Meagan Drillinger
To say the secret is out on Tulum is quite the understatement. The once-bohemian, backpacker community has exploded into a magnified version of its former self, where boutiques, galleries and pop-up cocktail bars far outweigh the former bohemian, on-the-cheap vibe.
Still, Tulum continues to attract its fair share of budget travelers, and it is home to scores of locals who live, eat and party there as part of their daily routine. So where do the locals of Tulum go? For an insider's peek at the pavement of Tulum, here are some suggestions from locals.
Where to eat
Menus are essentially useless at El Camello Jr., a roadside eatery heralded for its ceviches and other seafood dishes. The whole, fried fish is also one of the more popular menu items, though is best for larger groups as it's rounded out with rice, beans, salsa, veggies and tortillas. The restaurant also serves tacos until 5 p.m.
For a quick lunch, consider Las Quekas, a small chain restaurant that started in Cancun. This fast-food joint uses fresh ingredients, and the tortillas are made and cooked to order. The two items to know at Las Quekas are its quesadillas and its sopes, each offered at under 15 pesos. It's good to note that the restaurant cooks up whatever ingredients they have that day, so the full menu might not always be available.
Branch outside of Yucatecan cuisine and explore Guerrero and Oaxaca at Pozoleria la Mexicanita. Known for its pozole (corn stew), quesadillas and sopes, this affordable local joint maxes out at 60 pesos for a dish. Opt for the green or white pozole with chicken, pork or mixed, and add the cucumber and lime agua fresca for a refreshing top-off.
Going local and natural is easy at the Mercado Comunitario de Tulum. This eclectic food scene brings together the Mayan communities in the Riviera Maya area, resulting in a foodie culture that is indigenous to the local area. Honey producers, farmers, Tulum chefs, fruit markets and taco stands are the highlight of this mercado.
For a solid late-night taco fix, don't miss Antojitos la Chiapeneca. Waiting isn't uncommon for a table, but it will be worth it for the al pastor tacos, as well as the panuchos, which are fried tortillas with beans and toppings.
Where to drink
While most travelers-in-the-know tend to heed the warning signs of karaoke and beer specials, Kahlua on Avenida Tulum is the exception to the rule. By day Kahlua is a laid-back hangout known for its beer and tacos, but at night the lights begin their epileptic flashing, while the jarring sounds of drunk karaoke fill the humid, Caribbean air. While you'd think it would be slews of tourists behind the microphone, its actually locals who are doing the damage.
For something a little more sophisticated, like, perhaps a mojito, venture off to Batey. This trendy, artsy bar is in prime downtown Tulum. While it is, in fact, popular among tourists, its off-the-beach locale makes it a popular spot for locals, as well. Music runs the gamut from jazz to electronic to mariachi, and a rotating art display keeps both residents and hipsters thoroughly entertained.
Where to play
Full moon parties gained their fame and glory from the shores of Thailand, but Tulum has its own version of the popular nighttime event. At Papaya Playa Project, the full moon parties are downright legendary. Each weekend, the beach in front of the popular cultural, community hotel hosts DJs and musicians, while the monthly Full Moon series take the parties to the next, all-night level for locals and guests alike.
Most locals tend to linger in Tulum Pueblo, versus the beach. The beach is overrun by boutique luxury resorts and the clientele that follows. Tulum Pueblo, however, sits split by Highway 307, and is home to most workers of the tourism industry. It is a great destination for bargain shopping, street snacks, mellow nightlife, Spanish lessons, markets and cheap hotels. If you're looking to see Tulum for a fraction of the cost, Tulum Pueblo is the place to stay.