My kayak glided easily off the shore of the Je'elel Che lake. The late evening sky was painted a pale pink and blue, casting eerie shadows behind the forest of seemingly bewitched, centuries-old trees that ring the water. My paddle cut the glassy surface, pushing me along smoothly as I followed my guide in and out of the mangrove channels until we emerged into a smaller lagoon.
The sky quickly faded to black, and thousands of stars materialized above us. We sat in total silence, quietly counting constellations, before paddling back to shore past a peeking crocodile. My guide gave a strong blow of a conch shell that reverberated against the trees, and all of a sudden the black night was ablaze with fiery tiki torches, leading the way to a sumptuous banquet laid out for us in the jungle. This was my first night at Explorean Kohunlich, and the magic was only just beginning.
Je’elel Che is a lake near Explorean Kohunlich that is an ideal spot for kayaking and stargazing. Photo Credit: Meagan Drillinger
For many travelers, Mexico's Yucatan peninsula ends at Tulum. Luxe sun-worshippers and leathery backpackers alike will make the trek down Highway 307 from Cancun, perhaps stopping along the way in Puerto Morelos or Playa del Carmen, making a beeline for the eco-chic bohemian hideaway that has skyrocketed to popularity.
But unbeknownst to many Americans, Tulum is merely the jumping-off point for the mystery, adventure and beauty that lies in the jungles beyond. The southernmost part of the state of Quintana Roo is brimming with Mayan archaeological treasures, natural beauty and stunning wildlife, all without the onslaught of mass tourism. And Explorean Kohunlich, tucked among it all, is changing the way we think about eco-adventure and luxury.
The Explorean Kohunlich is an oasis shrouded in mist and greenery, found in the heart of the Mayan jungle just outside Quintana Roo's capital, Chetumal. Thirty-eight bungalows and two cabanas are scattered among the trees, putting guests at the doorstep of both nature and the local Mayan culture.
I checked into my bungalow and checked out of the rest of the world. Inside the bungalow, where you'll find neither TV nor WiFi, is all you'll really need: a king-size bed, a terrace with a hammock and a small, private backyard. Each bungalow is truly like its own escape from the rest of the resort and any outside distractions. That said, the rest of the resort is entirely plugged in. WiFi is fast and accessible from the main lobby, where you will also find the infinity pool, restaurant, spa and self-serve bar.
The resort is all-inclusive, which is welcome news due to the fact that the resort is so isolated. That said, if you had the option to dine elsewhere, I doubt you would. The quality is simply outstanding, using local ingredients to create fantastic Yucatecan specialties. In fact, it's the emphasis on the local that is what sets Explorean Kohunlich apart from almost any other hotel I've experienced in Mexico.
An outdoor dining area at the resort, which uses local ingredients to create sumptuous Yucatecan meals, such as cochinita pibil. Photo Credit: Meagan Drillinger
Not only is food and drink included, but all activities are part of the daily rate. And this is not your regularly scheduled programming. Explorean harnesses its location in the southern Yucatan to create truly memorable and one-of-a-kind experiences, each with a luxury twist. My surprising kayak adventure is just one in a long list of activities that give you both a sense of place and otherworldly access all in one.
Upon arrival at the resort, I was whisked to a small, hollowed-out section of forest with a fire pit and a long table dressed underneath a wooden arbor. A team of chefs were huddled around a pile of banana leaves stacked on the ground, while a bartender poured cocktails, wine and beer. Before long the chefs pulled back the leaves, unearthing a metal trap door, from which, when swung open, luscious wisps of smoke billowed. They were preparing cochinita pibil, a typical Yucatecan pork dish. The pork is roasted for hours in an underground pit until soft and tender, then served with pickled red onions on corn tortillas. It was more than a royal welcome.
The following day we packed into a van and made our way to Bacalar, one of the Magic Towns of Mexico, named for the lagoon on which it sits. Bacalar is also known as the Lake of Seven Colors, which shifts shades of blue throughout the day as the sun moves across the sky. Kayaks were set up waiting for us on this southern corner of the lake, where there were no other visitors. Again we embarked under the open sky, paddling into this brilliant, unbelievable blue.
After kayaking through the mangroves, we hopped out of our kayaks for a swim and an impromptu spa treatment, marinating ourselves in the limestone sediment found at the bottom of the lake. This soft, natural sand clings to the skin and dries to become a natural exfoliant, removing dead skin as you wash it off. Feeling freshly renewed, we headed back toward shore, where, again, a long and beautifully decorated table was waiting for a lunch of fresh shrimp aguachile, grilled meats and a Nutella dessert. Bartender included.
The resort has its own temazcal, a traditional Mayan sweat lodge. Photo Credit: Meagan Drillinger
Other activities include mountain biking in Chichan Ha Tropical Forest, a traditional Mayan sweat lodge experience at the hotel's own temazcal, a nature walk discovering the local flora and fauna and so much more.
But one of the main reasons to stay at Explorean Kohunlich are the ruins for which its named. A short mile from the resort is the site of Kohunlich, an important Mayan city, with the largest number of constructions in Mexico that are open to the public. The city has been beautifully preserved, with complexes like the Temple of Masks and the Stelae Square among some of the most impressive sites in the country. The most important sections of Kohunlich are the 27 Steps and Pixa'an, which are groups of palaces and residential structures. The entire city rises out of the jungle, so that when I climbed the Temple of Masks, all I could see was a thick blanket of vast, green wilderness as my guide belted out into a conch shell that echoed for miles.
Receiving far fewer tourists than more popular sites like Chichen Itza or Tulum, one of the best parts about exploring Kohunlich is how alone you feel, like you are seeing the complex the way it was meant to be seen, as a truly lost city.
The final night at the resort was no less awe-inspiring. I was led through the jungle surrounding the resort for a discussion on local Mayan legends and one final look up at the stars. On our way back to the hotel, my guide shifted his route, venturing deeper into the jungle. Standing on a small hill, surrounded in total darkness, he blew into his conch shell one last time, and the forest erupted in an orange blaze as torches caught fire, lighting up one last magical al fresco meal under the crystal-clear stars and forever emblazoning this special place in my mind.
Rates start at $204 per person per night. Visit www.explorean.com/kohunlich.html.